MARIA COMPARETTO reports from backstage at Giorgio Armani's Haute Couture show in Paris on 7th July.
Mr Armani has been dressing powerful women for decades, and his loyal followers in attendance, including A-listers Megan Fox and Cate Blanchett, were in for an extravaganza that didn't disappoint. The runway was charged with 1930s and 40s silhouettes fused with 80s raw sophistication - femme fatale meets Betty Blue.
The inspiration came from the designer’s love of early cinema and its seductive heroines. The models glided down the catwalk to old movie soundtracks looking like panthers, chic and glamorous. The look was ultimately monochrome, and that classic Armani pant suit was back, worn with oversized jewellery and matching shoulder pads. Buttons, too, were larger than life, some even decorated with diamanté. Scalp caps encrusted in jet, gold & silver beads were effortlessly balanced on the sides of the models’ heads, some teamed with a modern-day fingerless glove which dripped off the back of the hands with bugle beading. Most pieces were heavily embellished and intricate, but then juxtaposed with dresses that had an 80s-style open zip detail. This theme was used on many hems, necklines and arms across the collection.
Luigi Murenu created the hair for this season and used amazing black high-gloss wigs on all the girls that were all fitted or dyed then cut to size backstage prior to the show. They definitely added to the drama, cropped at the neck but wispy over the face.
Linda Cantello kept the skin fresh and nude but matt in texture. Giorgio Armani Crema Nera, £175 was used to firstly nourish the models’ faces, then the new Fluid Master Primer, £32, was applied to the T-zone to give a less dewy appearance to the face. A small stroke of Giorgio Armani High Precision Retouch, £22.50, was used under a few tired eyes and then gently patted into place.
Eyelashes were accentuated using eyelash curlers to emphasize the length, then layers of Giorgio Armani EYES TO KILL mascara, £22, was applied on the top lashes, giving the eyes that luxurious film noir quality. Eyebrows were brushed and slightly darkened, creating a much fiercer straighter, masculine shape using Brow Defining Pencil, £15.
 Sheer Blush ©Giorgio Armani |
Cheekbones too were accentuated and sculpted using a taupe coloured powder (Giorgio Armani Sheer Blush number 5 or 6, depending on the skin tone, £26), applied just below the cheekbone giving that chiselled 80s edge. Lips were kept natural, with not the slightest hint of lip balm in sight, which kept the overall look fresh, modern and slightly androgynous. Finally, a light dusting of Giorgio Armani Loose Powder, £27, was applied at the last minute using a large brush, ensuring all the models looked flawless yet filmic.
The show oozed opulence – definitely a red carpet look for all who have the budget to wear it. And hats off to those who have the courage to wear the amazing crystal-coated jumpsuits that closed the show. Keep up the good work, Giorgio!
Giorgio Armani Stockists: Selfridges 020 7318 2486
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