This UK Christmas market just ranked 2nd best in Europe – have you been?

Europe has spoken, and a British Christmas market has slipped into second place on the continent. Not London. Not Manchester. It’s the one with fairy lights under a castle, a smell of cinnamon in the cold, and queues for churros that somehow feel worth it. The kind of place you say you’ll pop into for an hour and leave four hours later with a paper bag of gifts and a warm feeling you can’t quite name.

I arrived just as the sky turned that indigo-blue Edinburgh does so well. Stalls flickered into life along East Princes Street Gardens, the silhouette of the castle quietly approving from above. A brass band stitched carols into the evening, and you could feel people unclench. Couples held gloved hands. Kids negotiated hot chocolate toppings with the seriousness of diplomats.

A vendor handed me a tiny wooden spoon and a sample of something spiced and sweet. I watched someone buy a hand-printed lino-cut of Arthur’s Seat, the ink still smelling faintly of the studio. The air held a soft mix of roasting nuts and pine. It felt hyper-local and wildly international at the same time. Then came the announcement: second best Christmas market in Europe this year. That raised an eyebrow.

Because there’s always a story behind a trophy.

Edinburgh just climbed to No. 2 in Europe

Let’s say it plainly: Edinburgh Christmas Market has landed the runner-up spot in a major European ranking. It’s the kind of recognition locals shrug at and visitors screenshot. The market sprawls along East Princes Street Gardens, with satellite pockets near the Mound and St Andrew Square, and it’s as photogenic as winter gets. Lights drape the trees, the big wheel turns lazily, and a ribbon of wooden chalets stretches beneath the castle like a festive stage set.

What wins votes here is atmosphere you can walk through. One minute you’re tasting a Scottish twist on bratwurst, the next you’re chatting to a maker who throws ceramics in Leith. We’ve all had that moment when a small, unexpected detail tips you into full-on festive. Maybe it’s a string quartet playing Fairytale of New York in front of the Scott Monument. Maybe it’s steam rising from a cup of mulled cider as the first flakes of sleet dare to fall.

There’s logic to the leap. Edinburgh doesn’t try to be a German pastiche. It borrows the best bits—glühwein, gingerbread hearts, merry-go-rounds—then folds them into the city’s own rhythms. The urban backdrop does heavy lifting too. A market under a medieval fortress is always going to feel cinematic. Add easy transport links, well-drilled crowd management, and a calendar that stretches from late November into the New Year, and you’ve got a contender people remember, share, and revisit.

What to look for, and when to go

Start early or finish late. The first hour after opening and the last hour before close are when the market breathes. You can move at your own pace, chat longer with stallholders, and catch the city in that golden-blue light. Work from the edges in: begin around the quieter ends of East Princes Street Gardens, then drift toward the big wheel and the heart of it all. Take small bites—one savoury, one sweet, one sip—and keep walking. That way, nothing blurs into the same.

Go midweek if you can. Friday and Saturday evenings are joyous but dense. Families tend to claim late afternoons; after 8pm it turns date-night and friends-night. Layer up, because the wind that slices along Princes Street is nobody’s friend. Let’s be honest: nobody actually does that every day. Bring a tote for finds and a pocketful of small notes. And take moments to step back. The view from the Mound, looking down at the glow, is the postcard shot you’ll want later.

“It’s not just a market, it’s Edinburgh showing off how winter should feel,” said a stallholder selling smoked salt and rosemary shortbread. “People think they know what to expect—then the place catches them off guard.”

• Best time: Tuesday or Wednesday, 11am–1pm or after 8pm
• Warm-up route: Waverley steps, Scott Monument, down into the Gardens
• Eat: venison burger with rowan jelly, then a cinnamon roll to share
• Sip: mulled cider with a slice of orange, or a hot toddy if the cold bites
• Buy: small-batch candles, lino prints, Harris Tweed accessories

Why the No. 2 spot makes sense right now

Part of this ranking is about the year we’ve had. People want easy joy that doesn’t feel throwaway. Edinburgh’s market has leaned into that with more local makers, better lighting design, and thoughtful programming that feels curated rather than crammed. The balance is right: enough spectacle to thrill, enough substance to linger. And the city around it—bookshops, galleries, quiet closes—extends the day without draining it.

There’s also the power of proximity. Fly-ins love that Waverley Station spills you almost into the market. Scots hop down from Glasgow on a day return. Visitors pairing it with a Highlands escape can do both without burning through time off. The castle, the gardens, the skyline—those images travel well on social feeds, but they also hold up in real life. Word of mouth does the rest. **It’s a market made for memory-making, and it shows.**

Numbers help, yet they don’t tell the whole story. Yes, there were thousands of public votes and nods from travel experts. Yes, the market’s footprint and dwell time beat many rivals. What lifts it is the human detail: the smile from a vendor when you mispronounce stollen, the stranger who offers you a napkin when your churro sugar gets everywhere, the brass band that slips a Scottish reel into O Come, All Ye Faithful. *That’s the moment a city stops being a backdrop and becomes part of your winter.*

Make the most of a day at the market

Anchor your visit with three planned stops: a view, a bite, and a break. The view: ride the big wheel at dusk for a sweep over the Gardens and the castle’s floodlit walls. The bite: choose one hero dish and commit—venison burger, raclette toastie, or a haggis bon bon cone. The break: duck into the National Gallery café or a nearby pub on Rose Street for 20 minutes of warmth. Then you’re good to wander again.

Common pitfalls? Overbuying early, then lugging it around. Loop back for purchases once you’ve scoped the stalls you love. Skipping water because it’s cold—pack a small bottle, it helps more than you think. Forgetting cash where card readers sputter. Not leaving time for Princes Street window-gazing on your way out. Be kind to your feet; cobbles plus cold is a stealthy energy drain. If you’re with kids, set a token budget for rides first. It keeps the peace, and the smiles last longer.

“Pick one tradition and repeat it every year,” says Maya, who’s come since 2011. “For us it’s sharing a bag of roasted chestnuts on the steps by the Scott Monument. It makes the market ours.”

• Pack: thin gloves you can tap a card with, a spare phone battery
• Map: note where the exits are; flows change with crowds
• Quiet pause: the terrace by the Balmoral for castle views
• Splurge: artisan knitwear or a hand-poured candle that smells like pine and peat
• Free joy: choir performances near the Mound, if you time it right

Some places meet you halfway. Edinburgh at Christmas walks the last few steps. It brings the glow, the music, the spice on the air—and then leaves space for you to have your own little moment. Maybe you’ll find it standing in the soft mist under the castle, fingers warmed by a cup you don’t want to end. Maybe you’ll find it in a laugh with a stranger after you both drop icing sugar on your coats. **A market can be busy and still make room for you.** Share it with someone who needs a lift. Or keep it quietly to yourself and just walk, breath turning to silver, lights threading the trees like a promise.

FAQ :

• When does the Edinburgh Christmas Market usually run?Typically from late November into early January, aligning with the city’s festive calendar and Hogmanay season.
• Where exactly is it?Centred on East Princes Street Gardens, with spillover around the Mound, Princes Street, and nearby squares.
• Is it free to enter?The market area is free to wander; rides and select attractions are ticketed, and some special events may have entry fees.
• How crowded does it get?Peak times are Friday and Saturday evenings and weekend afternoons in December. Midweek and later evenings are calmer.
• What’s the must-try food or drink?A hot toddy or mulled cider to sip, plus a venison burger or raclette toastie. Leave space for churros or a cinnamon pastry.