North Yorkshire’s market gem you can reach today: 2 markets, Channel 5 fame, and an 1855 racecourse

Between the North York Moors and the Dales, a cobbled square and warm welcomes are stirring fresh curiosity for travellers and TV fans.

Set on the A19 near the A1, Thirsk sits within easy reach of York, Harrogate and Ripon, yet keeps a pace and personality of its own. The town’s links to a beloved Channel 5 series, the steady rhythm of two weekly markets, and a long-standing racecourse give visitors several reasons to linger.

What makes Thirsk different right now

Thirsk is an old-school market town that has resisted fads. Its heart is still a cobbled square, watched over by the town clock and shaped around everyday routines. Rather than chasing trends, Thirsk leans on craft, produce and conversation. That’s why it appeals to two kinds of people at once: those who want somewhere grounded, and those who crave the familiarity they saw on screen.

Two markets every week — Monday and Saturday — still anchor the town around its clock and cobbles.

Shoppers find fresh fruit and veg, Yorkshire cheeses, baked goods, cut flowers, and stalls selling handmade items. You can pick up a warm sausage roll, a jar of local honey or a small gift without paying city prices. Independent shops ring the square, and most owners stand behind the counter. Ask a question and you’ll likely get a story with the answer.

Channel 5 fame and the legacy of James Herriot

Thirsk’s biggest cultural link is James Herriot, the pen name of veterinary surgeon Alf Wight. His books inspired Channel 5’s All Creatures Great and Small, a series that recently completed its sixth run across Yorkshire. While filming locations span the county, the spirit of the stories springs from Thirsk: honest work, landscapes that shape lives, and humour in the everyday.

This is where Yorkshire’s most famous vet wrote the tales that became a six-series Channel 5 hit.

Fans of the programme often start with the town, then fan out across the countryside. That loop makes sense: you see the places that formed the author’s view, then the wider valleys and moorland that underpin the drama.

Easy to reach, easier to like

Positioned between the North York Moors and the Yorkshire Dales, Thirsk gives quick access to big scenery without the hassle. Drivers use the A19, with the A1 close by for longer journeys. Rail travellers have regular services to major hubs, and buses link nearby market towns. Once there, much of the centre is walkable, and the river Cod Beck makes a gentle companion for short ambles.

Walks from town: flat, short, or a proper leg-stretcher

For an easy hour, take the flat path along Cod Beck and loop back through the market streets. If you want height, the Hambleton Hills rise to the east with views across the Vale of York. Moorland tracks such as the Drove Road suit steady walkers who prefer wide horizons. The Swale Way long-distance route passes through, linking Boroughbridge and Kirkby Stephen, so you can sample a stretch and return by bus or taxi.

Plan your visit at a glance

• Market days: Monday and Saturday on the cobbled square under the town clock.
• TV link: the town that inspired James Herriot’s stories and Channel 5’s All Creatures Great and Small.
• Racecourse: a country track with origins in 1855 and a well-kept paddock.
• Access: A19 nearby, A1 within easy reach; compact centre that rewards walking.
• Walks: Cod Beck for short, flat routes; Hambleton Hills and the Drove Road for longer outings.

Where to eat and linger

Independent cafés and restaurants give the town a comfortable rhythm. For breakfast, several spots serve a hearty full English and decent coffee. Lunchtime brings homemade soups, toasties and fresh salads without fuss. Italian plates at Bianco Ristorante suit a relaxed evening, while Yorks of Thirsk, The Pantry and Tea Time Cafe keep things homely with cakes and light meals. Pubs nearby pour proper pints and fill plates on Sundays.

Service is unhurried, prices feel fair, and tables turn steadily rather than rapidly. That suits a place where conversation carries as much weight as the menu. If you only have an hour, choose coffee and a slice; if you have an afternoon, book a roast and watch the square go by.

Why the racecourse still matters

Racing at Thirsk dates to 1855, and that longevity shows in the way people use the course. It’s a place for families as much as form guides. The paddock is well cared for, the infield is open, and first-timers stand alongside regulars without feeling out of place. On non-race days, the site’s open spaces and hedgerows frame the town’s rural edge, a reminder that Thirsk belongs to the countryside as much as commerce.

How to shape a day that suits you

If you have three hours, browse the Monday or Saturday market, take the Cod Beck path, then settle in a café. With a full day, add a loop by car or bus to the Hambleton Hills, returning for dinner in town. Fans of the Channel 5 series often pair a morning in Thirsk with an afternoon visiting filming villages elsewhere in Yorkshire.

Keep it simple: market, riverside walk, and a plate of something warm. That’s Thirsk at its best.

Practical tips for a smoother visit

Parking fills quickly on market mornings, so aim for an early start. Bring a small tote for produce; stalls prefer cash for small purchases, though many now take cards. Footpaths can be muddy after rain, especially by the beck and on the moorland tracks, so wear shoes you don’t mind cleaning later. If mobility is a concern, stick to the square and riverside path, which stays level and sheltered.

Budget-wise, you can spend little and leave satisfied. A coffee, a pastry and a few market bits will cost less than city-centre equivalents. Add a pub lunch and you still come in under many Yorkshire day trips. Race days change the town’s rhythm; if you like buzz, check the calendar, and if you prefer quiet, pick a non-race weekday.

Stretch the weekend without stretching the budget

Thirsk pairs well with York’s museums, Harrogate’s gardens or Ripon’s cathedral and canal. Use the A19 for quick hops, then return for an evening meal on the square. Walkers can stitch a two-day plan: short in-town routes on day one, then a longer Hambleton Hills or Drove Road section on day two, sampling the Swale Way for a taste of a longer trail. That way you get variety without over-planning.

If you’re chasing the feel of All Creatures Great and Small, don’t rush from location to location. Start where the stories were born. Stand by the clock, listen to the chatter, and let the place set your pace. The television magic makes sense once you’ve seen how Thirsk moves.